In Their Shoes; Matt Powell, Sneakerologist

Did you know that Americans bought 300 million pairs of shoes last year?  Did you know what e-commerce sales were up by around 20% in 2013?  Did you also know that the average price of men's footwear in 2012 was $72?
You may not know the answers to any of the above questions, but Matt Powell of Princeton Retail Analysis has made it his business to know these and countless other fascinating other economically related sneaker facts in his role as a 'Sneakerologist', as he examines statistics, facts and trends about the industry that make sense of the past, and calculated forecasts of the future..
Understanding the business of the sneaker world has seen Matt become something of a sneaker superstar, with his name listed in Complex's 30 Must-Follow Sneaker Writers and Bloggers on Twitter”, and his LinkedIn profile is in the top 1% most popular profiles.
When Matt talks the sneaker world listens so I'm delighted to have him here as the latest name in my In Their Shoes interview series.

IDYSM: Hey Matt, thanks so much for your time. So, I don't think that I have ever spoken to a 'Sneakerologist' before. How did you get this title, and what does it mean exactly?

Matt: I gave the title to myself, as people were asking “what do you do?”  It means I study the business and culture of sneakers

IDYSM: Sounds like an amazing job.  Why did you start to study this area, and to what end do you continue to do it?

Matt: I was sociology major in college, so I’ve always been interested in consume behavior. As a retailer, you have to understand what make people buy.

IDYSM: On a day-to-day basis what does your work entail?

Matt: I write a lot.  I do research for the brands, retailers, the stock market and investment banks. I blog for Forbes.  I answer Twitter questions.  I get my data weekly at 9 east Wednesday and am constantly referring to what the data says, challenging my assumptions

IDYSM: What are those assumptions and why do you want to challenge them?

Matt:  I expect to see certain trends occurring.  If they do not then I have to ask myself where did my assumptions go wrong.

IDYSM: Do you purely factor in the financial value of sneakers, or is it important to also factor in the emotional attachment product can have to people too?

Matt: Tough to measure the emotional attachment. Often the emotions make small releases seems more commercially significant when they are not

IDYSM: Could sneakers act as a barometer of an economy’s strength or weakness?

Matt: Interestingly when the economy is tough, sneakers sell better.  I believe it is an inexpensive way to make yourself feel better.

IDYSM: True - not everyone can book a holiday to the Maldives or buy an Aston Martin, so do you see a value to sneakers being their 'feel-good factor'?
Matt: Without question.  Every time you put a new pair of shoes on, you feel better

IDYSM: This can go the other way though as we see some releases in the US create some pretty violent scenes over 'must-have' product.  Does this demand for limited edition product cheapen or heighten the industry?

Matt:  Those incidents are pretty rare.  The brands and the retailers work very hard to make sure their customers are safe. Unrequited demand drives more sales down the line.

IDYSM: How has the industry changed since you've been involved? Surely trends, mass production and the Internet have changed the landscape?

Matt: Without question the internet has been the biggest game changer.  Access to information and feedback has never been broader. The sneaker business is a premium business.  I think the internet has helped there.

IDYSM: You've rubbed shoulders with Wayne Gretzky, Michael Jordan and John Elway when you worked with MVP, how interesting was it to be around these names, who have such an influence?

Matt: They were all very smart business people and did not display a lot of ego.  Very involved in the concept of the business. Their vision was not just to sell products but to teach kids how to play the game better.  We worked really hard on this and I think achieved much of our goals. 

I think they picked me to help because of my broad merchandising background, and my vision of for the internet.

IDYSM: How does their influence filter down to what we see at a street level?

Matt: Their vision was that they wanted the site to help kids play sports better.  I think in a small way we were able to accomplish that.

IDYSM: Only a few years ago Vans and the Vulcanized movement seemed to be killing it - was low pricepoint x high volume sales a passing trend?

Matt: The Vans business has remained very good. Vans sales grew 25% in the US in 2013.  They focused on iconic products and kept distribution very clean.

IDYSM: Since about 2011 we have seen more and more high-end, high price-point produce arrive. How does the more expensive, aspirational produce effect the industry overall?

Matt: The sneaker business is a premium business. Much of the growth we have seen in recent years has come from premium price points.  I am very focused on watching the premium segment.  There does not appear to be any slowdown in sight.

IDYSM: How relevant is the study of Sneakerology in the current age?

Matt: I would say more than ever.  Brands and retailers can never have too much information

IDYSM: We seem to see retro, tech and premium as 3 hot areas right now, will any or all of these define the 2010's as a key era in sneaker history?

Matt: Retro is just fashion.  The tech advances that we have seen (and will see) are the real key. Consumers want technical products that can do more things than they ask.  I call it the “smartphone effect”

IDYSM: Finally, this is the question I end all of my 'In Their Shoes' interviews with, what's on your shoes right now, and were they a wise investment?

Matt: I don’t own any sneakers.

Follow Matt on Forbes here.

In Their Shoes; Ta-ku

Talented, driven and humble are 3 qualities that make Australian beat maker and Producer as easy to like as his infectious music.

I was first introduced to his incredible work when I shot with Perth store Highs and Lows last year, as they are mates with him and he provided his beats for the film (see here).  I couldn't get it out of my head, and since then I've become a big fan of his work.  

He's also fascinated in sneaker culture, and as the pioneer of the Instagram group 'Team Cozy' he's bringing together kicks lovers and appreciators from around the world.

With the above glowing credentials I'm delighted that he's taken time from his busy schedule to be the latest name to take part in my In Their Shoes interview series, so read on to find out more about Perth's finest.

IDYSM: Hey TA-KU, Set the scene for us. Where are you, what are you listening to and what’s happening?

TA-KU: Oh ok, right now? I’m in my studio trying to make something album worthy, instead I am draking out listening to Caspian and getting rather emotional.

IDYSM: So, how did you get into making music?

TA-KU: I’ve always loved listening to music and discovering it, however it really started when I heard Slum Village Fall in Love and literally fell in love with Dillas production.

IDYSM: For a while you were splitting your time between making beats and selling Health Insurance. I’m sure the music is healthy enough for you to just be focusing on that

now?

TA-KU: Yeah for sure. The music was healthy enough for awhile, but I enjoy the corporate secular world too so I was just going 100 on both.

IDYSM: Your music has a recognisable soulful feel to it, how long did it take to find your voice and why did you go in that direction?

TA-KU: Hmm I think that’s still ongoing you know? Im always finding my voice in different sounds and experiences. I think SOUL is very much apart of me and who I am tho.

IDYSM: Your work is championed by a lot of people including Hypebeast and Hypetrak. How important has working with leading influencers been?

TA-KU: Its been essential and an honour. I like working with like minded people who are enthusiastic and passionate. I would have it no other way.

IDYSM: Sound obviously plays a big part to your work, but so does vision. I’ve heard you say that your music is created visually, tell us about the process.

TA-KU: Aesthetics in music is SO important. We creative visual memories and patterns when we listen to music. Its just what the human brain does. It helps stimulate us. in the music

making process its important to factor in the visual element as it makes it that much more of an impact on our senses.

IDYSM: Are you something of an observer? I would guess you are as your photography on Instagram is pretty sweet – is it something you take seriously?

TA-KU: Yes it is, I love people watching, I love traveling & I love human behaviour. As we coast through life it is captured and defined by moments. Being able to observe and then

absorb those moments mean a lot to me. As they will never happen again.

Images courtesy of Ta-Ku

IDYSM: You are behind the visual outlet of Team Cozy on Instagram (@Team_Cozy). Tell us about how that came about and what it is?

TA-KU: Team Cozy started as a hashtag which expressed the notion of comfort over everything. However it grew into this strong visual aesthetic. Photographer and instagrammer

alike really embraced it by combining a keen eye for composition and really clean , warm photography into their love for comfortable clothing and street wear. Its evolving very fast.

Images courtesy of @team_cozy

IDYSM: It goes some way to showing your love for sneakers, what role do they play in your life?

TA-KU: I just feel complete with a nice pair of shoes you know? Its all in the details and also in the what they say about a person.. they hold so much character.

IDYSM: The sneaker scene in Perth is pretty passionate, how involved are you in that scene and with Highs and Lows (the globally recognized Perth boutique)?

TA-KU: They are all my HOMIES! So much love for them. We collaborate, eat, play ball, talk, exchange ideas weekly. Very close to the HAL fam.

IDYSM: You get to travel a lot know, is that opening your eyes and ears to new inspirations both musically and with sneaker tastes?

TA-KU: Oh yes. ITs such an enlightening experience to travel. It just broadens all horizons. Giving you a peek into different cultures and sub cultures.

IDYSM: OK, you’re repping Team Cozy here and it’s time for my signature sign-off question and I can’t wait to hear your answer to this…what’s on your feet right now?

TA-KU: Damn imma have to tell the truth but right now I got the 40s & Shorties high socks and Nike Solarsoft slippers. OG. ha!

Follow Ta-ku on Instagram here.

Follow Ta-ku on Soundcloud page here. 

And treat yourself - check out Drive Slow Homie Pt. III here.

In Their Shoes: Exclusive Stan Smith adidas Interview

The word 'honoured' doesn't do justice to how I felt when I was asked if I wanted to interview Tennis and adidas shoe God Stan Smith.

Stan's iconic signature shoe is a shoe I wore a lot back in the 90's/00's and is easy to love with it's timeless classic design that makes it as relevant today as it did 40 years ago when it first dropped, and it's amazing how the same shoe can be worn so many different ways by different people - surely the hallmark of a true classic?

Currently circumnavigating the globe to promote the epic relaunch of his iconic signature shoe, Stan has been interviewed by countless people around the world so I tried to come up with some interesting questions he might not have faced, so read on to hear his thoughts about how it feels to have been one of the pioneers behind a sports shoe collab, how the shoe game has evolved, and whether he's going to get adidas new boy Kanye West on the tennis court for some training.

IDYSM: Hey Stan, thanks for your time.  First up, you’re known as an icon of the sports world and of the shoe game, which gives you the most pleasure?

Stan: Well I had a lot more to do with my performance in my tennis career than I did with the shoe, but it’s been fun to see the shoe do so well!

IDYSM: Over the year’s what’s changed more and why; the sport of tennis, or the shoe industry?

Stan: I’m not an expert in the shoe industry, although I do know a bit about it. But certainly the tennis industry has changed dramatically with the type of racquets they’re playing with and therefore changing the style of play. It’s amazing how much shoes have evolved too. And how many different types of shoes there are, with the materials, styles and that sort of thing. That makes my shoe kind of interesting - it’s stuck around throughout these evolutionary things.

IDYSM: Marketing has played a huge part in the sports and shoe industries with both changing considerably in the past few decades.  Do you feel your role, being behind one of the first signature shoes helped pave the way for this?

Stan: I don’t know, that’s a good question…Whether my name really helped, or exposure with the shoes has helped that much; or whether it’s been the fact that the shoe itself has kind of taken up all sorts of identification for different people.

IDYSM: At its inception the shoe was a state of the art tennis shoe, how do you feel about it crossing over to become a piece of timeless lifestyle product?

Stan: Well it’s great to see how the shoe industry has evolved, and tennis in particular. The great shoes now have all sorts of bells and whistles. My shoes are pretty simple, even though they were hi-tech at the time. It’s amazing to see what’s actually transpired with that shoe and the fact that it really is a lifestyle shoe now. More people are wearing lifestyle shoes than tennis shoes, in fact tennis is a very minute part of my shoe identification.

IDYSM: The hype around the 2014 Stan Smith relaunch has been immense, how does that make you feel as not many shoes can generate such interest with so many different types of people?

Stan: It’s amazing to see the number of different people that have gravitated towards the shoe and that they think it’s cool. I think that’s what I’ve seen out of all this promotion - the shoe is thought of as being kind of cool for a lot of different people. Not just older people or younger people, I just think that it covers a big expanse of different people from different ages.

IDYSM: Your name first adorned the shoe in 1972, did you ever imagine you would be here 42 years later with that same shoe generating huge international appeal?  Let’s face it, it’s a shoe icon.

Stan: The simple answer is no. We thought it might be a four or five year relationship with adidas and the shoe, but we extended it again, and then extended it again, and then pretty soon it got to be pretty much a staple. Then we took it off the market a couple of years ago.  But now, they’re back and this relaunch has been truly exciting.

IDYSM: All signs suggest this year will be a huge year for adidas, any plans to team up with adidas new boy Kanye West?, maybe get him on the tennis court?

Stan: (Laughs) There have been a lot of people who have been involved in the shoe, that would be interesting. The most interesting one has been Giselle, but, she looks better in the shoe than most.

IDYSM: I always like to end my interviews with this question…what’s on your feet right now?

Stan: The one and only…

A big thanks to adidas and Torstar Communications for making this happen, and of course Mr Stan Smith himself - the smile won't be wiped off my face for quite some time!

The shoe is out in various guises now around the world - check it out now and treat yourself to some Stan in 2014!

2013 Round Up; May

My highlights for May seem to focus on 'newness'.
Hot new product dropped with the highly anticipated adidas Originals x BAPE x UNDFTD Consortium pack, and the Sydney sneakerheads came out in force to lap it up.  Onitsuka Tiger celebrated the opening of their new Sydney store.  adidas revealed great new tech with the launch of the Boost, and I caught up with Neuw denim to appear in the above short interview.

In Their Shoes; Ryan Hall, I Am Other

When it comes to speaking to interesting peeps with a love for kicks, today we’re speaking to the biggest yet, as towering in at 6 feet 5 inches tall, Ryan Hall of I Am Other is the latest name to take the time to speak to IDYSM.

The host of the Stereotypes video series, Ryan is a man after my own heart – hitting the streets to find those unique street stories.  He’s a man accustomed to being on the other side of interviews but as a huge sneakerhead he’s been kind enough to become an amazing interviewee in this latest instalment of ‘In Their Shoes’ as he talks Pharell, NY street culture, what’s kicking in his world of kicks, and if you're a size 12 (US) how you could maybe help him out.

IDYSM: Hey Ryan. So how did you come to be involved with I Am Other and what inspires your unique take on street stories?

Ryan: A mutual friend introduced me to the original director of "Stereotypes", Rae, who was in the process of interviewing potential hosts. I actually cancelled out on the first test shoot because I felt that I didn't have much of a chance at doing the gig. For whatever reason, Rae pressed me about a reshoot and the rest they say is history.

IDYSM: What’s your approach to targeting people on the street; Who do you approach, why, and how do you get them to open up?

Ryan:  Its all about feeling out peoples energy. Funny story, I used to do statistical analysis for a horrid survey company while working my way through college. I learned very quickly that no-one was gonna stop for you unless you gave them the grand introduction. I even used a British accent at times. It worked, honest to Jehovah, God, or whatever deity you believe in. I've not had to rely on that for "Stereotypes"… yet.

As far as the why and how, I really just want to know a lil bit of everyones opinion about everything I take interest in. Im a conversationalist by nature. Grew up in a home of counselors, lawyers, and a Judge. Everyone had an opinion, and a strong one at that. I learned early that if you don't speak up you won't be heard. I guess I want everyone to speak up, and in the process learn what defines their character; attitude, opinions, and all. By engaging people with a mix of light topics, and humor, they tend to open up. I slip serious issues in as the interview progresses.  It can be a really mixed bag.

IDYSM: I understand your background is in comedy performance, does that mean you’re always looking for entertaining and uplifting people and moments?

Ryan: I take whatever may come. I like happy and entertaining folk as much as the next person, but its good to have a variety. I like the challenge of getting to the core of what a person is feeling, and while the show is often humorous, I embrace the chance to delve into serious topics when the opportunity presents itself.

IDYSM: Looking at what you wear, you seem to take great pride in presenting a unique sense of style – what is your look exactly?

Ryan: Much like my interviews its a bit of this and a bit of that. I'm a very eclectic person and I like my style to reflect that. I hate to be put into anyone category, other than cool, which I have yet to actually lay claim to. That last statement was me blatantly reaching out for pity and accolade.  Never hurts to be a bit of a ham. Guess I'd say my style is all about embracing individualism.

IDYSM: Do you think your look stands out because your approach to style is outrageous, or because it’s getting harder to find fresh people with a unique sense to style these days?

Ryan: I think being 6'5" and thin I already stand out. My mom has great style so I was always motivated to put my best foot forward. Being so tall, it was already a challenge to replicate the things I liked so I had to always improvise. Eventually I just gave into my id and jumped off the deep end. I'm sure I'll look back at a lot of what I've worn and wonder what the Hell I was doing, but at least I've had a blast doing so. I'd rather be eccentric, and having fun than cookie cutter and unmemorable. I think people are hungry for individuals that stand out, which may have something to do with the success of "Stereotypes".

IDYSM: How big a part do sneakers play in your look and your life?

Ryan: I'm a shoe freak. I might literally be the male Imelda Marcos. I just built a walk in closet at my apartment to house all my shoes. and it still aint enough. Sneakers are such a mainstay I can't think of completing my look with out them, quite often. And I've realized Im obsessed with white sneakers. Ive worn my white Nike Blazer Mid AB TZ's so much I had to reorder them twice. Also obsessed with Pierre Hardy sneakers. If they weren't so damn expensive I'd own every pair! Have one pair at the moment but once I start getting real money you won't even have to guess what I'm wearing most often.

IDYSM: There must be some serious sneaker heat at I Am Other, how does your sneaker game rate, and I have to ask, is Pharell’s the best in the office?

Ryan: Like I said, I got a shit load of shoes. And considering your interviewing me I'll take the title of Sneaker King! Just don't let anyone else know. As far as Pharell, he could wear mismatched flip-flops and be cool. I don't even think he wears sneakers anymore. He just floats around on two miniature flying carpets, or those "Back to The Future" Nikes, but really from the future. He can do no wrong!

IDYSM: What have you learnt from being around Pharell?, surely one of the most influential individuals in contemporary street style.

Ryan: To just remain myself, and try to date someone as hot as Kelis at least once. I see him every once in a blue moon, but he's always so down to earth. And dressed in such a manner that suits only him. Seeing how comfortable he is in his own skin motivates me to remain the quirky guy I am, and hopefully shape the following around me rather than toning down my image to fit in and appease the masses. I'd like a gathering of open minded individuals that allow me to fit into my own space.

IDYSM: What’s the sneaker scene like in New York at the moment?

Ryan: Just as you imagine it, All over the place encompassing every facet that sneaker culture has to offer. Not a day I don't step out the house and find a pair of sneaks I'd like to call my own. The price of living in the New Rome. Real first world problems I'm suffering from.

IDYSM: NY’s influence has obviously been pivotal at key times in the history of sneaker culture.  How influential and iconic is the current scene?

Ryan: I think its pretty global at this point. NY has had its moments, and will always have a hold, but in my travels, every city I've been, there's a noticeable scene. Japan, London, France, Germany, LA, you name it, theres a scene. Plus you add in whats happening with the online community, and you've got sneaker freakers everywhere.

IDYSM: What’s on the horizon for you – both personally, and for I Am Other?

Ryan: Skies the limit both personally and for I Am Other. Always working on something fresh so keep your eyes peeled as I'm sure to pop up somewhere soon.

IDYSM: I like to end all ‘In Their Shoes’ interviews with this question, and I’m certainly hoping for something interesting…so, what’s on your feet right now?

Ryan: Right now its some dirty socks, but earlier I was wearing my favourite sneakers of all time; these ivory Alejandro Ingelmo Trons from his 2011 collection. I know all the details cause they're in the dying stage and I was Ebay hunting another pair. If anyone has the connect on another pair, size 12, hit a brother back.

In Their Shoes; Eugene Kan, Hypebeast

Few people can lay claim to having as much of an influence on contemporary style as Hypebeast Managing Editor Eugene Kan.

Seen as the benchmark of style and taste, pretty much anything that appears on Hypebeast gains instant cred and kudos (which is why I’m always incredibly stoked to see my work appear on the site), so needless to say Eug is rightfully considered one of the most influential peeps around.

Eugene was kind enough to spare some time to answer some Q’s in my latest ‘In Their Shoes’ interview where he talks football, Hong Kong style and why you should never go head to head with him at table tennis.

IDYSM: Hey Eug. So, let’s go back to the beginning. Tell us a bit about where are you from, and how your interest in style and culture began.

Eugene: I grew up in a small town outside of Edmonton, Alberta called Fort Saskatchewan. I used to play soccer in Edmonton and oddly enough a lot of kids that I played with had an affinity or interest in style. It wasn't necessarily good style in retrospect but it was a general consideration for caring what you wore and brands in general. I also was fortunate enough to hit up Hong Kong every so often with my family for the Christmas holidays.

IDYSM: But you moved to HK to play soccer? What happened.

Eugene: I spent a lot of time playing soccer as a kid and when I hit university it just went to a whole new level playing virtually every day. This was something that not many had the opportunity to do at all age groups as there wasn't a same level of structure as you see in other and more established soccer countries. Ultimately after barely making it through university, I went to HK to play. I certainly wasn't the best player but I usually worked among the hardest so I guess I have that to thank.

IDYSM: You spent a lot some time writing/blogging for Kix-Files. How did this start, and how important was this to where you’re at now.

Eugene: When you're afforded so much free time, you really need to find some way to use it. It's not like I was making a lot of money playing haha, so no opportunities to go and gamble it away. So I parleyed a general interest in writing into sneaker hookups from Kix-Files. It's cool to see they're still around and if I never had the opportunity there, I might have never been able to make the jump to Hypebeast.

IDYSM: Are you much of a collector, how rampant is your love for sneakers?

Eugene: I don't really collect shoes, although recently I have started amassing some soccer boots (since they don't wear as quickly) but I don't really want to own a pair of shoes that I wouldn't ever wear. I would prefer to wear all my shoes but sometimes I need to think twice as to whether that's appropriate given sometimes in the past I would wear a pair once or twice and never wear them again. I have a lot of friends and family that could benefit from all the things I'm fortunate to receive.

IDYSM: With HB you’re across all facets and areas of style, design and culture – what areas excite you the most?

Eugene: I am genuinely interested in seeing how people can go out and enhance somebody's life through design or creativity. For example in fashion, I enjoy more technically-minded pieces that can provide both functionality and aesthetics. Food is another interesting topic for me given its ability to influence much larger demographics. You can go into a restaurant and see so many people from different walks of life whereas fashion is probably a bit more segmented.

IDYSM: How important are sneakers now in contemporary style?

Eugene: I think it's a huge part, technical elements in design are being seen across the board and when done correctly they offer a lot of value in terms of (as I mentioned) both functionality and aesthetics. That's not to say there are some pieces designed solely with aesthetics in mind but in general, the sportswear approach is obviously very popular.

IDYSM: Where is the shoe game at right now, is this a defining era?

Eugene: I think it is in a way. It has become a time where there's a ton of choice and of course the interest is reflected in the market prices. However, I would say in general, the barriers to entry in footwear are still quite high (in regards to tooling and production), so there's still room to grow. There may be brands popping up, but they aren't really providing a comprehensive package and utilising a lot of pre-existing pieces when creating their brand.

IDYSM: You’re based in Hong Kong now, how influential is this as a style hub on a global scale?

Eugene: I don't think Hong Kong is very influential. It's a market that is built on consumption more so than creation but that's due mostly in part to the lack of real estate and ability to create. I harbour no ill feelings haha, but it is what it is.

IDYSM: Did you ever imagine Hypebeast would become this influential?

Eugene: Nah never, being in HK is good sometimes as we're a bit sheltered. We keep it humble and we try to do the best possible given some of our limitations. The fact it's influential is a great power, and you try to create a product that has value and people find interesting or at least the relevant stories should be told.

IDYSM: What does an average day have in store for you?

Eugene: Wake up, hit the gym, check RSS, get to work, check emails, start working on projects for the day, smash some people at table tennis and then work some more... go home, make dinner with the wife @thatfoodcray and do some more work... boring I know.

IDYSM: What’s been your proudest achievement so far?

Eugene: I used to never really care for accepting achievement, but as of late, I think I feel most proud of helping build Hypebeast with Kevin (Kevin Ma, the founder) into something that I personally love doing as well as support a team of awesome people that I work alongside.

IDYSM: What does the future hold for you and for HB?

Eugene: Not sure, probably try to start doing larger scale projects but it's sometimes tough 12 ahead, on a different continent.

IDYSM: I know a lot of people will be interested to hear the answer to this, my final question; what’s on your feet right now?

Eugene: The 24^th straight day of my Maison Martin Margiela x Converse 1970s Chuck Taylors.

A huge thanks to Eugene for this time, and if you're the only person on the planet who doesn't know about Hypebeast check it here.